travel

book club

korea

HAWAII

North Shore Sunset

oahu | north shore sunset oahu | north shore sunset oahu | north shore sunset

Not all changes in the North Shore were bad, or maybe I should say, unwelcome. Even though we found ourselves back at our old favorites – Ted’s, Giovanni’s, and Matsumoto’s – we loved the range of new food options that didn’t exist eight years ago.

Maybe it’s the Texan in me but I always think that the best food after a day spent at the beach or out in the sun is Tex-Mex or Mexican food. So when we found a food truck selling just that we immediately pulled up, grabbed a bench, ordered enough food for five people, threw back a couple cold drinks, and watched yet another amazing Hawaiian sunset.

Continue Reading

HAWAII SNORKELING

Pupukea Beach Park | Snorkeling at Three Tables Beach

Pupukea Beach Park | Snorkeling at Three Tables BeachPupukea Beach Park | Snorkeling at Three Tables BeachPupukea Beach Park | Snorkeling at Three Tables Beach

North Shore had some of the best snorkeling sites, at least that was how we remembered it. Problem was, this time around we couldn’t quite recall where we last snorkeled so we drove past beach after beach to and from Haleiwa until we finally decided to stop at Three Tables Beach. By mid-afternoon the crowds of tour buses and surf/paddleboard classes had thinned out and we easily found parking at Pupukea Beach Park.

After quickly changing into our swimsuits (in parking lot, in the car), we grabbed our snorkeling gear, walked down to Three Tables Beach, waded in the calm waters, and awkwardly slipped on our fins, toppling over multiple times in the process. The vastness of the ocean has always terrified me, no matter how many times I’ve snorkeled or scuba dived, but it has always fascinated me as well. I pulled down my mask, affixed my (broken) snorkel, pushed away any fears, and dove down beneath the surface, anxious to see the world below.
Continue Reading

FOOD HAWAII

Haleiwa | Matsumoto Shave Ice

matsumoto shave ice matsumoto shave ice matsumoto shave ice

I contemplated another “Then & Now” post with Matsumoto’s but I didn’t have a ton of photos from our previous trip and had too many photos from this time around to lump them in with a general “what we ate” post. So, here we are – a quick post with a few photos of me and Sly stuffing our faces with shave (shaved?) ice.

Continue Reading

FOOD HAWAII

Then & Now | Giovanni’s Shrimp Trunk

north shore | giovanni's shrimp truck

Then: 2008

north shore | giovanni's shrimp truck

Now-ish: 2015

north shore | giovanni's shrimp truck

Then

North Shore | Malaekahana Beach Life

Now

I don’t know why I am so compelled to write Then & Now posts. Probably the same reason why we keep returning to the same places, why I take a billion photos, and why I keep a blog. Something inside of me needs to look back, compare, and remember. Am I looking for change, like a spot the difference puzzles, or am I looking for similarities, a touch stone to the past?

Whatever the case, since our last trip to Hawaii in 2008 the garlic shrimp truck industry, and food truck business in general, blew up in the North Shore. We knew there were other shrimp trucks, possibly even ‘better’ shrimp trucks, but none of those places were Giovanni’s. It had to be Giovanni’s.

Continue Reading

BEACHES HAWAII

North Shore | Malaekahana Beach Life

North Shore | Malaekahana Beach Life North Shore | Malaekahana Beach Life North Shore | Malaekahana Beach Life

Once we reached the North Shore, ultimate laziness set in. All we wanted to do, all day, every day, was drive to Ted’s Bakery for coffee and breakfast, fill sacks with fruit from a roadside vendor, and spend every moment in between on our beach, playing in the water, swinging in a hammock and/or stuffing our faces with tropical fruit.
Continue Reading

BEACHES HAWAII

North Shore | Malaekahana Moonrise

North Shore | Malaekahana Moonrise North Shore | Malaekahana Moonrise North Shore | Malaekahana Moonrise

One evening, Sly and I walked a couple miles or so into town, passing by a field of ponies munching on dewy grass and guided half-way by a friendly golden retriever. We could have just as easily driven the short distance, but the night was cool and breezy and we felt like stretching our legs. There was a brief stop at the grocery store to buy a deck of cards decorated with hula girl graphics, a book of crosswords, a 10-pack of my favorite mechanical pencils, and a few snacks. We weren’t really hungry but we still ate a plate meal and a bowl of vegetable saimin from L&L for dinner. Somewhere during our journey, ice cream may have been involved.

By the time we slipped back into camp the ocean was luminous, beckoning. The moon shone as bright as I’ve ever seen it and the water looked like silvery shards of glass, broken and glimmering under a puffy line of cotton-like clouds. At once our humble beach shack transformed into a magical place that felt both real and surreal at the same time, as if we were tiny actors living within a cellulose movie reel.

Continue Reading

BEACHES HAWAII

North Shore | Sunset at Malaekahana Beach

north shore | sunset at Malaekahana Beach north shore | sunset at Malaekahana Beach north shore | sunset at Malaekahana Beachnorth shore | sunset at Malaekahana Beach

After a hectic work week (for Sly) and a lazy week of lying on the beach (for me), we left the tourist shops and crowded Waikiki beaches behind, picked up a few provisions at the store, and drove North to our favorite little camping spot on Malaekahana Beach.

Seven years had passed since we last camped on Oahu and since that time our camping spot had gone through a change in management and a complete renovation. We worried that it wouldn’t be the same as we remembered and, as we drove to the North Shore, we remarked at how much more commercial and built up everything seemed. We found ourselves constantly asking the other, “was that always here?” and “is that new?”

Years ago I recalled counting sign posts to find the entrance to the Malaekahana Beach Campground, and even then we were fairly uncertain that we had arrived at the correct location. This time around we easily located the entrance amid the barrage of signs, cars, and unfortunately, people.

Continue Reading

HAWAII

Honolulu | Shangri La – Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art

Honolulu | Shangri La - Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art Honolulu | Shangri La - Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art Honolulu | Shangri La - Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art

The former architecture student in me loves seeking out sites with architectural significance whenever and wherever we travel, especially if it involves peering inside early to mid 20th century mansions of the rich and famous. As hard as it was to pull myself away from my established beach bum lifestyle, I made the exception to visit Shangri La, Doris Duke’s former home and now the Center for Islamic Art and Culture.

Doris Duke, an extremely wealthy heiress, fell in love with Islamic art during her honeymoon when her round-the-world trip took her to India and then to Hawaii. Construction on Shangri La, Duke’s Honolulu home, began in the late 1930s and continued for the next 60 years or so as Doris Duke collected and commissioned Islamic art.

Continue Reading

BEACHES HAWAII

Honolulu | Beach Life

honolulu | waikiki beach honolulu | waikiki beach honolulu | waikiki beach

I spent pretty much every day in Waikiki the same way: woke up early to eat heaping plates of tropical fruit at our complimentary breakfast buffet with Sly, watched the sunrise from the balcony, completed the daily crossword puzzle(s), walked across the street to the beach, read a book, took a nap on the warm sand, returned from beach to hang out on balcony while listening to the evening’s entertainment playing poolside below, and dinner with Sly after he returned from work.

Some days there were slight variations that involved acai bowls, bus rides to non-touristy parts of town, shopping at Target (Target! I missed you) and browsing the sale section at the Urban Outfitters located across the street from our hotel. Every day, a different, yet similar beach, a new book. I contemplated taking surfing lessons but, after watching a pre-teen girl, her stage mom, and said girl’s own personal videographer “take surf lessons,” I thought, forget it. This beach will do just fine.

Tough life, I know, but someone has to live it…

Continue Reading