Sokcho at Night + 88 Saengseon Gui (88 생선구이)

Up until the end of the Korean War, Sokcho was a part of North Korea. When the war ended, the borders were redrawn, families were split, and Sokcho officially became part of South Korea. Despite the barbed wire-lined beaches and bright searchlights combing for defectors over the ocean, Sokcho felt like a quaint, traditional, fishing village – they type of place where shops close early and out-of-towners are regarded cautiously.

After our long drive to Seoraksan National Park and an afternoon hike to Biryong Falls, we drove about 15 minutes or so to the quiet beach town of Sokcho, our home for the next couple of nights. For dinner we decided on a grilled fish restaurant within walking distance of our guesthouse. From our hotel we walked along the beach, past rows of vendors selling stuffed squid, each of them beckoning for us to sit down and eat. In front of each food stall, squid swam in large, rectangular, blue plastic water-filled tubs while out in the back, plastic tables and chairs were set up in a make-shift outdoor dining room. Had we not already had a restaurant in mind, we would have definitely sat down for a bite to eat.

Instead we continued walking until we located a small side street off the main road and followed it down an alley lined with traditional shops, many of which we couldn’t quite tell were open or closed. Sometimes we passed a storefront that looked open on the outside, but completely devoid of life on the inside. Other times we peered into a darkened shop window only to discover that there were quite a few people eating (or maybe just drinking?) inside, watching us we strolled by. Just when we started to question our directions, the small street curved to a dead end. At the end of the street we heard the unmistakable sounds of people dining, and knew we found the right place.

After removing our shoes, we were seated at a community table with our own personal table top grill. We didn’t have to worry about what to order as there was pretty much only one thing on the menu: grilled fish.

Hot charcoal coals were carried in from outside and placed in our grill. Once the grill warmed up, our server arrived with a plate of fresh fish, which she cooked, sliced, and divvied out in a very particular order. Our meal was very simple, but very fresh and exactly what we craved after a long hike.

Post dinner we took a nighttime stroll around the empty streets of Sokcho. The downtown felt so vintage, as if it were just barely outside the lines of modernity. Down by the bridge, the working class fishing village felt like the kind of place where one might find a converted factory-turned-loft where a struggling artist lives; an idyllic sort of place that seems to exist more in movies than in the real world. But this wasn’t a movie set, this was the real thing. Fishing boats came and left, hungry kitties scoured the streets for scraps, women squatted on stools untangling fishing nets, seagulls called overhead, charcoal fires burned in the streets, and the smell of fish – grilled or otherwise – wafted down every dark alley. It all felt so very authentic, and so very charming.

DETAILS

88 Saengseon Gui (88 생선구이) | CUISINE: Korean Seafood / Grilled Fish | COST: ~$25 (I think) for two people for a shared grilled fish platter. | DESCRIPTION: Very simple and straightforward grilled fish meal served with all-you-can-eat Korean sides. Not much English spoken here, but then, the menu is not very complex and will involve a fish platter of some sort. Liek most Korean bbq restaurants, you don’t have to worry about cooking your own fish or maintaining the grill — one of the servers will come around and do that for you and your table. This is a popular place and can be packed if you’re there during peak hours. It’s best to walk or take a cab as parking is very limited  | VERDICT: Whenever we visit a beach town, we have to eat seafood, and this place fit the bill. The food is simple but fresh, so as long as you don’t go in expecting anything more than that, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.